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Map of South Korea to give you an idea of where Seoul is and where Busan is. South Korea is about the size of Indiana. I live somewhere between Buyeo and Songnisan National Park, south of Seoul. |
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View of Busan from 75 Square on Taejongdae Island |
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UN Memorial |
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Wearing the bright orange trash bag on my head at the Lotte Giant Baseball Game |
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Busan Tower |
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Right outside the Jagalchi Fish Market |
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Busan Aquarium by Haundae Beach |
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Busan Station |
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Haundae Beach |
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House Slippers at the hostel--Pretty much sums up my life in Korea |
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75 Square |
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Riding a huge robotic dog at the carnival |
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Lotte Giants Baseball Game |
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Jagalchi Fish Market |
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Gwangalli "Diamond" Bridge Busan |
Since we
had another long weekend, my friend, Abby and I decided to head down to Busan
to explore the awesome city. Busan is the second largest city in Korea located
on the southern coast of the peninsula.
So Thursday
morning we boarded the train and made the four hour treck south to Busan. I
loved the train ride as it allowed me to see even more of Korea. Korea is a
very small country, about the size of Indiana and therefore the topography
doesn't change that much from city to city. There are a lot of mountains
(mountains/hills) and a lot of rivers that flow in between them and of course,
multiple high rise apartments that dot the landscape. It’s hard for me to tell
whether or not Korea is pretty. Everywhere you go there are beautiful, green,
lush mountains but in front of all of those mountains are always, huge, white
apartment buildings that don’t have much architecture to them and instead look
like massive rectangle buildings.
Anyways, we
arrived in Busan and decided to immediately head to our hostel, Mr. Egg. Not
sure if I mentioned this or not but Korea is obsessed with shoes and taking
them off when you get into a building. It is really pretty weird and annoying
for me, every time you go into a restaurant you have to take your shoes off and
then spend time putting them back on when you are done. Anyways, we get to our
hostel and of course have to take our shoes off but the house shoes they have
are so, so small. We were staying in the women’s dorm so they only had little
high-heeled in door shoes and they barely fit my toes. Half of my foot was
hanging out the back. Welcome to Korea, land of small feet!
We got
settled and immediately wanted to set out to explore and see some of Busan. We
were planning on going to the Lotte Giants baseball game that night so headed
straight to the stadium to buy tickets for the game. We thought the game would
be completely sold out because it was near playoffs but there were plenty of
seats left so we bought our tickets and then wandered around a bit outside the
stadium. It was so busy with people. There were vendors all along the streets,
little kids riding tricylces in front of the stadium, people playing basketball
right outside. It was a happening place. Unlike in US baseball stadiums where
you aren’t allowed to bring food into stadiums, in Korea it’s totally
acceptable so we bought some fried chicken from a lady off the street and
headed in. Baseball food, and sports food in general in Korea, is mainly Chimek
(Chicken and beer) so the vendor was so confused when we didn’t buy any beer
from her, lol. When we got into the stadium we thought we were prepared with
our chicken, but we had nothing compared to the spread of fellow fans. People
were bringing in coolers and coolers worth of food for their families and had
everything from a full pizza and full 6 pack of beer to juice boxes and boxes
piled high of fried chicken.
The stadium
was relatively empty the whole night but we had a blast. They had this guy who
stood on the dugout with some dancers and sang chants the whole time. Each
chant/song had a different arm movement and dance to go along with it that the
fans knew. It was also interesting because so many of the songs played were
American songs but had the lyrics changed to be in Korean. In the 7th
inning they pass out orange trash bags but instead of using them for trash
people fill them with air and tie them on their heads. It was the weirdest
thing but I guess since the Lotte giants’ color is orange people wanted to show
their team pride.
After the
game we took the long metro ride to see the Gwangalli Bridge located by
Gwangalli beach. The bridge was a feature point in one of the Korean dramas I
watched, Haundae Lovers, and I was so excited to see it. It was gorgeous! It is
all lit up and it changes color at night (as do most bridges in Korea-Koreans
love neon bridges). As we were walking along the bridge and beach we spotted a
carousel and wandered over to find a mini-fair. Most of the rides were really
expensive but there were these huge robotic dogs you could sit on and for about
a dollar they would walk and you could drive them around. Since it was cheap we
decided to go for it, so there I am driving this huge robotic dog around the
amusement park at ten ‘o’clock at night , right next to a four year old driving
his dog. What a night!
The
following day we got up early and decided to go see the UN Memorial. After a
breakfast of just coffee (Korean don’t do breakfast right!) we spent forever
getting lost and wandering in circles before we found the UN Memorial. The
memorial honored all the men and women who died from various countries during
the Korean war. It was weird though because there were armed guards at the
entrance to the memorial and before letting us enter asked us where we were
from. I couldn’t figure out why they would ask, maybe for data collection?? The
memorial was beautiful and the weather was fantastic so it was a great day for
walking around.
Thanks to
the help of some nice taxi drivers we found the bus stop to take us back to the
Busan station so we could board the “hop on-hop off” tour bus to take us around
the city. However, we waited for like 1 ½ before finally getting on the bus
that took us throughout the city and towards Taejongdae Resort. Along the way
the bus made various stops but we didn’t get off until the 75 Square which is
basically a pavilion on Jeoryeongdo Island. I am so glad we got off as we got
to hike around the island a little from here and there were beautiful views of
the city and ocean. We hopped back on the bus and made our way to Taejongdae
Resort Park which is basically a nature conservatory that is famous for its
rock beach. Once we got to the gate we purchased tickets to get on this long
tram that took us around the park/island. It was beautiful with amazing views
out to the ocean. The only time we got off the tram was at the lighthouse where
we were able to see most of the islands out to shore including Japan’s Tsushima
Island. After taking in the sights we hopped back on the tram hoping to get off
at the next stop for the palace but before we knew it, we had missed the stop
and ended up back at the park entrance, oh well!
Hopped back
on the bus but as it was nearing the end of the day the bus was so packed and
we were crammed into the stairwell not really allowing us to see much of the
city. I wish I could have seen more
because we passed Songo Beach which has a bunch of really cool statues coming
up from the sand.
Our last
stop was BIFF square which was the Busan International Film Festival Square.
Instead of looking at the BIFF square we went to the Jagalchi Fish Market which
was the coolest market I have seen in Korea yet. There were the weirdest
looking fish in so many tanks, with me not being able to recognize half of what
the fish and weird looking things were. I saw vendors filleting different fish,
one guy throwin a fish on the flow and hitting it with a pole, I saw sea
cucumbers just floating in little trays, it was crazy and so enjoyable. Out on
the patio the sun was setting behind the mountains and there was some concert
going on. As we were taking pictures we heard commotion over by the concert and
apparently someone had thrown one of the plastic chairs into the water causing
others to pounce on the perpetrator, grabbing him and yelling in Korean.
Everyone was staring but I don’t think anyone knew what exactly was going on. I
think that people just had a little bit too much Soju (Korean rice liquor).
Once we had
our fair share of fish and concert fighting we wandered over to BIFF square.
Busan is known for the film festival that happens there every year (that was
going on during our stay) and so BIFF was really crowded. Basically it is an
area with a bunch of movie theaters where people can go watch screenings of
movies. But it was hard to tell what was the actual BIFF square because its
located in a bunch of streets and blocks of restaurants and stores so we just
wandered around all the stores and restaurants before finally deciding on a
restaurant for dinner. Although the restaurant looked delicious as we walked
in, I just felt the gaze shift to me and Abby. I am use to people staring but
it doesn’t mean I like it. The staff weren’t that friendly either but dinner
was awesome-some kind of stir-fry.
Once we had
enough of the staring, we got some bubble tea and tried to head towards Busan
tower to see the city at night. We were wandering in circles and circles
looking for this stupid tower asking multiple people who had no idea. Well we
finally saw it and couldn’t believe that people said they didn’t know where it
was-It’s a huge tower in the middle of the city! I felt like in the movie, “Rat
Race” where the two dumb brothers are looking for the airport when an airplane
takes off right behind them. Anyways, we finally saw the tower and decided to
walk towards it anyway we could. We ended up walking through some sketchy
stairwells and poorly lit alleys but finally found it. The view from the top
was awesome and allowed us to see the entire city and ocean beneath us filled
with bustling people, bright neon lights and streets that went on forever. It
was a great end to our day!
Our last
full day was going to comprise of going to the International Film Festival to
see what all the commotion was about. We headed down towards Haundae Beach and
wandered upon a traditional porridge restaurant. There was only one lady
working there but she was so nice and sweet. It took forever for our porridge
to come out and then she had made the wrong one for Abby so our short breakfast
stop turned into a long, long meal. But she was so nice! We asked her where the
Busan Aquarium was and instead of pointing on the map she had her husband bring
the small delivery truck around and he drove us to the aquarium! It was so
sweet and a great example of the Korean generosity!
We spent a
couple of hours wandering around the Korean aquarium seeing a bunch of cool
animals and the shark show, as well as going on this weird 4D ride (so not
worth it). I liked the aquarium but it was a prime example of how Koreans love
to boast about Korea. On one wall they were talking about eating sharks and it
said multiple times how China and Japan eat shark but Korea has condemned the
practice and no one in Korea eats it, yeah right! Korean news and propaganda is
so biased!!
The
aquarium is right on the beach so we finished up with the aquarium but when we
went out we saw that the film festival had set up all these stages on the beach
where actors and directors were being interviewed about their films. We saw some
Korean actors but I have no idea how famous they were. I wasn't really that
interested in them but was more interested in Haundae Beach, one of the most
popular beaches in all of Korea. During the summer the beach is packed with
people but seeing as how it was October it was fairly empty allowing me to take
some nice pictures. Plus it was featured on my kdrama so I was excited!
Since
Haundae Beach is relatively close to the Busan International Film Festival (BIFF)
grounds and it is full of hotels, there were a lot of BIFF staff around who
were able to help us get on a bus to the theatres. I am still not sure if they
realized that we were just tourists and not actually a part of BIFF because
everyone else on the bus had special ID tags and looked pretty important but,
hey, free ride. I had no idea what an international film festival really was
but I think it’s where they just show a bunch of movies and have a lot of meet
& greets with directors and actors. The list of movies playing was a mile
long and we had no idea how to pick or what to pick. When we walked up to the
counter they said only one movie had tickets left and when we were discussing
if we should see it, the clerk told us they were all sold out! How
disappointing! Instead we walked over to the Shinsegae Centum City Department
Store which is apparently registered as the largest shopping complex in the
world. It was pretty big. But on the outside they were selling movie tickets so
we tried our luck and got tickets for the last movie available even though it wasn’t
being shown til much later in the evening. So we wasted some time looking
around (the stores were way too expensive to buy anything but they did have an
Under Armour store), eating lunch by the indoor ice rink, taking a walk outside
by the river and walking around the BIFF grounds. Finally it was time to see
the movie. Oh my god, it was terrible. It was called The One-Armed Swordsman and was made in the 1970s in that terrible,
Chinese martial arts movie way with horrible fight scenes and a ridiculous
amount of fake blood. It felt like the longest two hours of my life. It was
interesting though because it was in Chinese but they had English, Korean and
Japanese subtitles. After the movie they had a Q&A with the director which
we stayed for before realizing it was all in Chinese translated into Korean.
For our
last hoorah for the day we went out for Chimek which is fried chicken and beer
which was delicious but, boy did we feel sick after.
The next
day all we had on the agenda was to head to Busan Station and take the four
hour train ride back to Jochiwon. Nothing that special happened but since we
got home early enough I was still able to go for a run and do some BodyPump in
my apartment to help a little with all the food I ate.
Overall,
Busan was nice but I was not overly impressed by the city. Although it is right
on the water, there are cranes and construction crews working right on the
water destroying the beautiful landscape. I wasn’t really a fan and don’t see the
need to return to the city nor do I recommend going. But still very glad that I
got to see the city!!